Sunday News: New Greek bakery puts generations of skill into pita bread

Plus Christmas treat ordering ideas, and Charles Barkley at The White Inn

That Greek Guy Bakery pita bread (Photo: Raw Peach Photography)

Since the owners of Pete’s Lebanese Bakery ended their decades of service to the pita bread lovers of Western New York three years ago, there has been a pita-pocket-sized hole in our collective menu.

Until last week, when That Greek Guy Bakery started delivering fresh pocket pita to the Lexington Co-ops on Elmwood and Hertel, where it sells for $5.50 a bag.

Michael Giokas delivers pita bread to Lexington Co-op.

Michael “Mel” Giokas, working in the Broadway Market, has been selling custard-filled bougatsa pastries, baklava, and more at the Williamsville Farmers Market and North Tonawanda City Market. Mel is short for Meletios, his baptismal name. Alexander, his son, runs the bakery with him.

Giokas, sensing the need for thin pita that will hold fillings, worked on his recipe, process, and packaging for most of a year before bringing it to market. That Greek Guy Bakery pita bread is not the same as Pete’s, but like its Lebanese forerunner, it’s the best pita in town.

Eugenia and Nakos, Giokas’ aunt and uncle, in their grandfather’s village bakery.

Another thing they have in common is baking heritage. Giokas was born into a baking family in Erythres, Greece, before immigrating with his family in 1969. His grandfather Meletios started a bakery there, today run by a third generation of Giokases.

The not-yet-baker, with grandmother Angeliki, on bakery roof, Erythres, Greece.

When Giokas started making bread, he started with his grandfather’s recipe, then started hunting for the right ingredients. “We have applied the recipes with 21st Century techniques,” he said. “It all started with finding an artisan flour that is comparable to our homegrown flour, back in the village.”

That Greek Guy Bakery pita bread is delivered on Tuesdays and Fridays, or available at its Broadway Market stand. By January, Giokas said, look for it in the East Aurora Co-op as well.

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Chaat chicken at As-Salam Diner & Kabab House

REVIEW: With the decline of Buffalo’s diner population, there’s a dearth of neighborhood restaurants where customers can settle in to be fed by familiar, friendly faces. Al-Salam Diner and Kabab House serves Bangladeshi cuisine, akin to Indian, with sizzling platters of marinated meat, aromatic pilafs, and a cornucopia of curries in vegan and carnivore alike. Cheery service and attention to customer needs, plus well-seasoned dishes from mild to wild makes Al-Salam a new generation of Buffalo diner. (Later today, for patrons.)

Pinoy Boi’s pork sisig with garlic rice and lumpia.

CLOSING: Downtown Bazaar tenants have been told that the 617 Main St. space closes for good Dec. 31.

Westminster Economic Development Initiative, the non-profit that runs the food hall, has not made an announcement. But Pinoy Boi, Lloyd Ligao’s Filipino operation, announced that its last day would be Dec. 21.

“As some of you might know, WEDI is closing the Downtown Bazaar at the end of this month. We are in the works of figuring out our next steps and will let you all know where we go next. We are so grateful to all of our customers. Pinoy Boi would not be alive without your love and support of our food!

Our last day here will be Saturday, December 21st. Please stop in to get your favorite dishes before we take a break.”

BreadHive’s chocolate mousse with hazelnut tart.

HOLIDAY SHOPPING: If you want the broadest array of choices for raising the bar at your holiday table, now is the time to assess best-in-show options before they’re sold out.

BreadHive’s chocolate mousse tart with hazelnut, above, is one present no one would return. Or take and bake a four-pack of cardamom pistachio rolls with icing.

Butter Block’s candy can croissants, a seasonal special.

Candy cane croissants are in season at Butter Block, where one might also order bûche de noël, quiche lorraine, or cranberry-raspberry linzer tart.

Miller’s Thumb Bakery cuccidati.

At Miller’s Thumb Bakery & Cafe, this is the season for master baker Steve Horton’s Italian-style cuccidati fig cookies, made with figs, raisins, hazelnuts, almonds, walnuts, orange marmalade, and spices.

Pâté en croute at Moriarty Meats.

Moriarty Meats offers a traditional French delicacy, pâté en croute. That’s pork, brandy soaked cherries, pistachio, apricot, candied orange peel, packed into a beef tallow hot water pastry with a pork aspic of red wine and orange peel.

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ALL-STAR SIGHTING: Charles Barkley, the “Round Mound of Rebound,” visited Fredonia’s The White Inn, recently reopened after a sweeping renovation. The White Inn Executive Chef David Signs got a photo with the 11-time National Basketball Association All-Star.

The hoops legend has been visiting Fredonia this weekend.

ASK THE REPORTER

Q: Where can I find culantro in Buffalo, winter 2024?
- r/olivernintendo, r/Buffalo

A: For culantro, I’d check the Niagara Street Tops, because Puerto Ricans call it recao. (That particular Tops also carries aji dulce chiles, according to a poster who said they worked there.)

Asian groceries typically carry several types of fresh herbs in their coolers. An Chau on Bailey Avenue, and Lin Market on Tonawanda Street in Riverside are the first two that come to mind where I’ve seen sawtooth coriander, also known as ngò gai. But any grocery catering to Vietnamese cooks is likely to carry it.

Other posters offered more tips. The herb, called “shan-nan” in Burmese, is also found at Siri Market in Riverside.

More reading from Michael Chelus:

• Mr. Galarneau wrote what he called "Buffalo's best fresh pasta program” at Inizio [Four Bites]

• Kevin Lin, Buffalo’s first Burmese restaurateur, is closing the original location of his Sun Cuisines and will turn it into a new restaurant run by a new operator [Four Bites]

• Christa offered a list of some favorite desserts from local bakeries that are ideal for sharing including cannoli from Balistreri's Pastries Plus, gluten free & vegan treats from Fig Tree Patisserie and more [Buffalo Spree]

• Christa also told us of the return of the special holiday menu at The Bloom & Rose [Buffalo Spree]

• Spoil your loved ones with provisions from places like Barrel + Brine, Amabel Provisions and more [Buffalo Spree]

• Francesca wrote about the push to improve Buffalo's corner food stores [Buffalo News]

• Francesca also told us about a new coffee shop in the University District - Seven Hearts Coffee Co. [Buffalo News]

• Ramen is back at Misuta Chow's [Buffalo Rising]

• Francesca gave us the history behind the Tom & Jerry and told us why it's still so popular in Buffalo at places like The Place and Schwabl's [Buffalo News]

• Although Sun Cuisines closed its Niagara Street location, it will still serve food from the parking lot from its food truck, Sun Roll Food Truck [Buffalo News]

• Tappo is lit up for the holidays [Buffalo Rising]

• Brett wrote about Chef Ross Warhol's new venture in Hamburg - Ladybird Deli + Bakery [Step Out Buffalo]

• Brian wrote about 42 North's launce of a new affordable lager, Magic Bear Beer Cellars third anniversary and more [Step Out Buffalo]

• Newell told us why the arrival of Public Espresso on Elmwood is a gamechanger [Buffalo Rising]

• Andrew gave us some recipes for Brussels sprouts gratin and crust Brussels chips [Four Bites]

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