Sunday News: Saved by locals, Fredonia's historic White Inn returning to service

Plus Plato Dale Farm Frolic, and heartfelt farewell from Spar's owners

Oct 20, 2024

After being dark for years, The White Inn is being tidied up to meet its public on Nov. 11.

The White Inn, on the corner of White and Main streets, was built by Devillo White, son of Chautauqua County’s first medical doctor. The pillared mansion served Fredonia dinner, housed its guests, and hosted its weddings for more than a century.

When it went dark in 2017, it went up for foreclosure auction. Chautauquans feared it had hosted its last party.

On Nov. 11, if all goes as planned, its doors will open to the community once again, ready for a new generation service.

Two Fredonia natives, Steve St. George and Devin Jones won the auction for the 25,000-square-foot historic inn at 52 E. Main St. After a $6.5 million renewal of the hotel and restaurant, supported with public funds, Fredonians can once again have dinner in a lounge glowing with a lit fireplace.

New furniture and interior finishes await guests.

There’s 25 rooms now, with a fully accessible bedroom in a former event space.

Jones said plans include a private patio livened up with regular oyster-shucking cocktail hours and similar events. Besides restoring its historic grandeur and updating its amenities to modern standards, the new owners look to make the inn’s restaurant more of an everyday attraction to local diners.

“We want it to be a place where you come in once or twice a week, not just for special occasions,” said Jones.

Towards that end, Chef David Signs’ menu has appetizers like calamari, burgers, dinner salads, and plenty more reasons to stop and eat before you get to the steakhouse pages, of filet mignons and crabcakes.

Your burger will arrive on a bun baked on premesis, like the dinner rolls and kummelweck. Vegan and gluten-free options are part of the standard lineup as well.

Specials will add weekly wildcards to the standard menu, Signs said. Dishes like honeyed broccoli heated up with Aleppo chile, and cauliflower steak on white bean miso crowned with chimichurri may soon be available in downtown Fredonia, with an easy walk to the opera house.

After Nov. 11, the White Inn will open for dining 11:30 a.m.- 9 p.m. daily. Phone: 716.640-7717.

REVIEW: Rizzo’s House of Parm is a love letter to the Canadian-American-Italian eating that Ft. Erie’s own Matty Matheson loved before he became a restaurant star in Toronto, and a television star on Vice and The Bear. The result is iconic versions of pasta under a bronzed cheese quilt and more dishes that Buffalo diners know by heart. (Later today, for patrons.)

EVENT: Plato Dale Farm’s Fall Frolic offers a farm-to-table feast Nov. 3 featuring its own work in a pig roast, half-chicken barbecue, plus a cornucopia of vegan and vegetarian dishes.

The menu includes bread from Plato Dale’s Heritage Kitchen, fresh beef sausage, mushroom stew, chili, carrot salad, soup du jour, charcuterie featuring New York State cheeses, and numerous desserts. The menu is mostly organic and made by The Heritage Kitchen, said Plato Dale owner Jenny Miller.

There’s also activities for the entire family, led by the Plato Dale crew, she said.

Tickets are $60 per adult, free for children 12 and under, but children must still be registered to attend.

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: Why is Spar’s European Sausage & Meats closed?

Jerry P., via email

A: Brace yourself. Joe and Beth Kennedy’s watch has ended. The Kennedys are dead set on turning ownership of their sausage and smoked meat emporium to the right buyer, if they can find one. But they’re done.

Beth Kennedy said farewell to her newsletter readers last week. It traced how a community made their work possible, prompting me to share her lightly edited message here.

But first: did you know Joe Kennedy also plays in two punk bands? Abandoned Trains, and Gates of Steel (as Gates of Hell), which you can catch playing 7 p.m. Nov. 2 in the Tudor Lounge, 335 Franklin St.

Decades ago, Joe was already a seasoned chef, pun intended, after having the good fortune of being mentored by some of Buffalo's best chefs. Jim Cohen, Joe George, Robert “Boz” Boswell, and Dino DeBell were a dream team of cooking knowledge.

At the former Buffalo landmark restaurant, his work ethic and skills helped him become chef de cuisine. Then he learned about the world of sushi while working at Tsunami, under the tutelage of “Godfather” Chef Mike Andrzejewski.

It was from Mike A that Joe learned Eric Spar wanted to retire from the sausage and meat shop he opened in 1989. The opportunity to own a business that wasn't a restaurant but still highly focused on amazing food and excellent service fit Joe's passion to be creative in the “back of the house” and bring my bartender-server skills to the “front of the house.”

In 2004, with Mike A’s, encouragement Joe met with Eric's, and quickly began an apprenticeship with the skilled metzger, planning to buy the business. By 2006, the keys, the name, and sacred German brat recipes were officially in our hands. More importantly, we now had the responsibility of upholding the integrity and high standards that Eric Spar and his daughter Tanja held dearly and proudly for so many years.

We inherited a loyal customer base, many of them older Germans, who wondered freely and loudly about the new owner with the Irish name now in charge of their beloved taste of the old country. During the first year of our tenure, Joe was often greeted with wagging fingers and demands of assurance that nothing would change at Spars.

If you know Joe Kennedy, you know he's not exactly tolerant of silly ideas. The thought of changing any of Eric Spar’s recipes would have been sausage sacrilege. Rather, Joe let his imagination and taste buds go wild creating new sausage recipes, with distinctive flavors.

I used to say Joe “birthed” the creations, and I was in charge of naming them. Hence the trays of sausages with names like Sexy German Brats with dried tart cherries and apricots, or Sweet Potato Surprise with andouille sausage, diced sweet potatoes, maple syrup and green onions.

Our Black Rock Berbere sausage, Joe's tribute to the ever-changing flavors of the neighborhood, was made with Ethiopian berbere spice, roasted garlic, roasted red pepper sauce, and fenugreek.

I liked saying that if you couldn't find a flavor to savor in our repertoire of 75-plus fresh and smoked sausages, perhaps you should just make it grilled cheese and call it a day.

Owning a small business is like being in charge of a toddler that never grows up. It can warm your heart, make you feel proud, and give you a sense of accomplishment as it flourishes under your guidance. And, like a toddler tossing your gold watch into the toilet, at times it can make you want to pull out your hair.

A good parent knows that every effort you place in the upbringing of your child will reflect on their future success. Being the mom and pop of our small business was no different. Like a small child who needs around-the-clock care, it wasn't unusual for Joe to stay out late, taking only short naps while he monitored the smokehouse filled with Easter or Christmas hams.

We worked hard, and we were blessed with being voted best sausage in Buffalo consecutively for nearly a decade. Our efforts were enjoyed by countless families around the city, nearby states, and Canada.

We were the lucky recipients of numerous pig-themed gifts to adorn our store, all with a great story; many welcome trays of cookies, all delicious and immediately devoured; and even a coffee maker when ours died suddenly during a busy holiday week.

We have had the pleasure of watching our customers' babies and small children grow up before our eyes, all fortified by the offer of a slice of Spar’s bologna or double smoked ham with each visit. We've shared tears over the loss of loved ones, substantive conversations over the deli counter, and plenty of hugs, much laughter and encouragement.

We will forever be linked together in the best way, and we wish all of you the best, always.

Keep shaking your bacon,

Sincerely,

Joe and Beth Kennedy