Sunday News: Ex-Chophouse chef Bylewski gets Statler Lobby Bar showcase
Milton's is giving restaurants a three-day shot to strut their stuff in front of downtown crowds
A changing cast of restaurant characters will unveil menus in The Statler Buffalo hotel over the next month or two, three-day chances to pitch their flavors to the guests of Milton’s, the lobby bar.
Milton’s, in the Statler Lobby Bar, 107 Delaware Ave., has been updated, with a full bar and cocktail menu. Until a long-term restaurant answer is in place, the space will give small-scale operators a chance to showcase their work in downtown Buffalo.
Up this week is Adrian Bylewski, who went from a food truck to Buffalo Chophouse executive chef before pursuing other interests. He recently returned from Doha, Qatar. There, as a consulting chef for Mario Carbone and Major Food Group, Byleski helped cater to the jet-setters gathered for the Formula One Grand Prix automobile race.
Back in Buffalo, Bylewski’s Cast & Coal Wood Fire Kitchen will offer a menu of fire-tinged flavors Dec. 20-22.
Appetizers include fried olives stuffed with smoked pimento cheese ($12). In a nod to Bylewski’s culinary origin story, the Loose Cannon Food Truck fried spicy chicken sandwich with slaw, pickles and hand cut fries ($19) makes a comeback.
Entrees will include roasted Flat 12 mushrooms on buttery polenta with pickled smoked onions, herbs and smoked ricotta salata ($19) and koji-aged steak frites ($36), featuring a ribeye steak aged in rice fungus for a dry-aged effect. It’s napped in pepperoncini butter and served with fries, naturally.
“Cast & Coal will focus on wood fire cooking using an existing wood oven and a charcoal oven,” plus a ton of cast iron cookware, Bylewski said. “I'll be taking a rustic approach to present modern steakhouse and bistro style cuisine, using local ingredients whenever possible.”
If you like what Byleweski’s serving at Milton’s, you might be able to enjoy the full Cast & Coal Wood Fire Kitchen effect later this year. He’s looking to open his restaurant on Hertel Avenue, he said, but that’s pending lease negotiations, so take it with a shaker of salt.
REVIEW
Pinoy Boi: Buffalo’s only Filipino restaurant is a one-man operation in Downtown Bazazar, where Lloyd Ligao has given the eaters of Erie County a chance to meet the beguiling flavors of the Philippines in the Theater District. From the essential lumpia fried pork roll to the lush peanut gravy of beef kare-kare to the kaleidoscopic Filipino shaved-ice dessert called halo halo, Ligao can take you places you’ve never been, without leaving town.
ALL-STAR EATS
Bloom & Rose, the knish makers, have larger menu ideas, including a lineup of Chinese-Jewish fusion dishes, available for takeout Dec. 19-23.
Szechuan brisket, pastrami fried rice, kreplach hot and sour soup, and bourbon chicken ought to give you an idea of what they’re up to. Available for pickup at 27 Chandler St., or via DoorDash.
OPENINGS & CLOSINGS
Nine and Night, the much-missed Thai restaurant in the original Grant Street edition of the West Side Bazaar, is preparing to open on Amherst Street in the former Ashker’s Cafe space. Look for a February opening.
In the meantime, remember that the people on the other side of the glass want to start cooking just as much as you do. That’ll be another card to anticipate falling as Black Rock’s bid as a key Buffalo food sector just got stronger.
WingNutz takes off: Just south of the University at Buffalo’s Amherst campus, Wingnutz Bar & Grill opened Dec. 15, at 1402 Millersport Highway.
Formerly a Santora’s outlet, the television-lined interior boasts 39 screens, making it a likely destination to get nutz during Bills games.
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday, Saturday. Closed Monday, Tuesday. Phone: 716-688-3081. (That number does not work today, but it should work by tomorrow.)
Mo Asian: Mahar Moe Asian Cuisine, 3668 Delaware Ave., started offering a Chinese and Thai menu with Chinese-American, pork noodle soup, and Thai curries.
Check out the menu at maharmoeasiancuisine.com.
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, noon-10 a.m. Sunday. Closed Monday. Phone: 716-331-3336.
Vault 237 reopened: The restaurant in the former bank building at 237 Main St. has resumed service, with a full menu in addition to the full bar.
Check out the menu at vault237buffalo.com.
Hours: 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday, 4 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday, Saturday. Closed Sunday-Tuesday. Phone: 716-503-1001.
Frank J. Balistreri, career baker and friendly fixture behind the counter at Balistreri’s Pastries Plus, died Dec. 12. “He was the heart and soul of Balistreri’s Bakery on the West Side and West Seneca's Balistreri’s Pastries Plus,” his memorial notice said. “He will leave a big gap in the hearts of his family, friends and customers.”
The bakery will be closed today for his wake.
Adios Lago 210: The lakeshore restaurant, closed for the season, announced on Dec. 11 it would not reopen.
“This was not an easy decision to come to, but ultimately the needs of our family are our number one priority and owning and operating a restaurant simply does not fit our needs at this time,” its owners wrote on Facebook.
“We are incredibly grateful for the last three years. Our employees, vendors, and guests became friends and family. The experience has been challenging, exciting, and a lot of fun for us. We appreciate everyone who supported us and our dream these past three years on the lake.”
MEET YOUR MAKER
Deborah McKenna Smith has her ciabatta down cold, which means that there’s often customers waiting when her Baggit’s Bread arrives at the East Aurora Co-op on Thursdays.
Smith has been a baking pro for six years, after spending a year perfecting her ciabatta recipe, inspired by a trip to Italy. Her large ciabatta is $10, the small $6.
Cookies, lemon olive oil cakes, cinnamon cakes and chocolate olive oil cakes round out Baggit’s Bread’s current offerings. Besides the East Aurora Co-op, Baggit’s Bread sells at Roswell Park and Hamburg markets, in season. Reach her at baggitsbread@gmail.com.
ASK THE READERS:
The chopped cheese, a specialty of Manhattan bodegas, is a ground-beef-based relative of the cheesesteak. Readers have asked if such a thing can be found in Buffalo, and I’ve got nothing in the databanks.
Before I run up the white flag of “sorry, not in Buffalo,” I thought I’d ask y’all, since there are a lot of corner stores in Buffalo.
Tortuga makes a great one, but they only have it occasionally on special. They call it Spanish Harlem, and if I see it, I always get it
I think El Palacio GK Vibes on Hertel has a chopped cheese!