Sunday News: Barbecue pope makes Southern Junction pilgrimage
Euro Cafe says goodbye, District 37 launches in North Tonawanda, and Pullman loaf posse perseveres
Imagine a Roman Catholic priest in his routine workday, holding mass, offering a sermon, and dispensing communion to a lineup of the faithful.
Then, next in line: the Pope.
That’s how Ryan Fernandez felt Thursday, when he looked up from the Southern Junction meat counter and saw Daniel Vaughn was his next customer.
Fernandez started reading Daniel Vaughn on barbecue nearly 20 years ago, in the mid-oughts, while living in Plano, Texas. Similarly smitten with the smoked meat arts, Fernandez has followed Vaughn’s work while the former architect became America’s preeminent barbecue critic.
The nation’s only full-time barbecue editor, for Texas Monthly, author of “The Prophets of Smoked Meat: A Journey Through Texas Barbecue,” published in 2013, Vaughn has “traveled the world sampling smoked meats at over 1,800 barbecue joints, most of which are in Texas.”
Most. Last week Vaughn got on a plane, flew to Buffalo, ate through Southern Junction’s menu, and chatted with chef-owner Ryan Fernandez. Then flew back to Texas.
After bestowing his benediction. Turns out Vaughn’s a Southern Junction fan.
While Fernandez’s unique melding of Indian and Texan foodways has won national attention before, including a top-five spot in James Beard Awards’ Emerging Chef category, a visit from Daniel Vaughn is another level of recognition for Fernandez.
In 2022, while Southern Junction was still a takeout-only operation at 27 Chandler St., Fernandez told coworkers that they’d know they were making good trouble if Vaughn showed up to eat.
Given the enthusiastic customer response, Fernandez knew his barbecue was good.
But was it Texas good?
Thursday, Fernandez got his answer. Vaughn’s seal of approval lets him move forward with the grace of the anointed.
“I’m still riding that high,” he said today. “He flew in just to eat my food. And that's just mind blowing to me.I think my heart rate's still that high.”
REVIEW: Simply Soul does exactly what it says on the sign. In downtown Niagara Falls, Keyona Johnson, Ron Miller, and family offer a straightforward lineup of Black soul food classics with finger-licking panache. Smothered oxtails, crispy catfish nuggets, and eminently gnawable spare ribs are good to go, or enjoyed in a peaceable dining room with red Kool-Aid refills ready. (Later today, for patrons.)
OPENINGS
Half Baked Cookies had its third store grand opening Saturday, at 451 Elmwood Ave.
Angila Snedicker’s jumbo cookie and ice cream emporiums are also found at 5091 Day Road, Lockport, and 5407 Sheridan Drive, Amherst.
These chonky cookies ($4.75, or $48 per dozen) weigh a third of a pound. There’s 12 classic flavors, including sea salt caramel, lemon crinkle, and funfetti. Two options in vegan and gluten-free flavors.
The ice cream is Perry’s, available by the scoop, hurricane, sundae, or shake.
Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. daily. Phone: 716-424-0420.
District 37 Kitchen & Taphouse launched yesterday at 110 Sweeney St., North Tonawanda.
Thai deep-fried brussels sprouts ($13), birria eggrolls ($14) and bacon-wrapped slices of Cuban sandwiches called “Cuban cigars” ($19) are among the appetizers. Five smoked meats (brisket, ribs, turkey, pulled pork, sausage, $18-$27) anchor the mains, along with Detroit-style pizza, including a vegan version.
There’s 37 craft beers on tap, a deep whiskey bench, and craft cocktails, too.
Hours: 4 p.m.-10 p.m. daily, bar open later. Phone: 716-327-1877.
CLOSINGS
The ladies from Warsaw have closed Euro Café, the Geneseo destination for Polish dining.
Krystyna Skrzypek and Margaret Zdzieszynski thanked their loyal following on Facebook, and gave credit to people who helped see Euro Cafe through lean times so they could serve for a decade.
A contemplated sale fell through, so the partners have offered restaurant equipment and supplies for sale.
Cucina, the Richardson Hotel restaurant led by Valentina Garcia Montaño, has closed, The Buffalo News reported.
ASK THE CRITIC
The quest for square bread, launched last week, remains in effect.
Five readers pitched in with suggested bakeries, but inquiries produced no hits. So far, no dice.
But it’s only August.
One reader helped with nomenclature. What we’re looking for is a Pullman loaf.
From Wikipedia: “Railway service pioneer George Pullman chose the loaf for use on his Pullman railcars for efficiency reasons. Three Pullman loaves occupied the same space as two standard round-topped loaves, thus maximizing the use of space in the small Pullman kitchen.”
The Pullman loaf posse moves on.
More reading from Michael Chelus:
Mr. Galarneau told why Sophia's is the Greek diner for the next generation [Four Bites]
Emperor Dumplings has returned to Tonawanda [Four Bites]
No Fun Low-Fi Bar has opened on Elmwood [Buffalo News]
This week, Brett wrote about The Lock Tender Taproom & Bottle Shop [Step Out Buffalo]
Black Restaurant Week 716 runs 8/12-8/18 [Buffalo Spree]
Cucina in the Richardson Hotel has closed but the bar remains open [Buffalo News]
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