Review: At Shamus, reassured that housemade bread baskets yet persist

35 years under family management gives Lockport dependable dining

People who grew up on government cheese didn’t experience what you might call fully fledged restaurants until adulthood. The first time a server put a relish tray of radish roses, pickle spears, and California olives in the middle of my white tablecloth, I panicked.

“I didn’t order that,” I blurted, thinking of the bill.

“That’s OK, sweetheart,” she said, “It’s on the house.”

When a restaurant supplies you with the beginning to your meal without asking, it helps set a tone of hospitality. When its welcoming offering is high quality, it not only whets your appetite, but sharpens your interest in what other triumphs the menu may hold.

At Shamus, a Lockport landmark with 35 years, the breadbasket can be read as a declaration of intent. Baguette, crusty sourdough, and focaccia come with two jazzed-up butters and grassy green extra-virgin olive oil for dipping.

Under Ann Murphy and her family, Shamus has stayed the course, through massive industry changes and pandemic alike, to provide Lockportians with Friday night fish fries, Saturday night lamb shanks, and other necessaries. Shamus also has a bar crowd, attracted to its handsome bar room and extensive array of Irish-based medicinal cordials.