Review: At Iron Tail Tavern, a new chance at Spanish savor in Elmwood Village

Patatas bravas, octopus carpaccio, and pan-seared cod highlight Andrew Berger's menu

Pan-seared cod with prawns, zucchini noodles, and pine nuts, at Iron Tail Tavern.

Fielding questions from people hungry for specific cuisines shapes my list of world flavors Buffalo misses most.

The list has gotten shorter in recent years. Sofra, a Turkish restaurant, opened in Depew, meaning I didn’t have to drive to Rochester and its parent restaurant, Aş Evi, for beyti kebab. In December, Quenelle opened in the former Rue Franklin space, giving Buffalo a French restaurant, complete with garlicky frogs’ legs.

Spanish has ranked high on the yearnings tote board since Amherst’s Aro closed in 2017. Every time I passed by the faded Main Street advertisement for Laube’s Old Spain, I felt a twang of absence.

Until December, when veteran chef Andrew Berger relaunched Iron Tail Tavern with a thoroughly Spanish-influenced menu in the heart of the Elmwood Village.

At 802 Elmwood Ave., on the block opposite Lexington Food Co-op, diners enter the first-floor bar, where they can perch for a drink from the list of classic and custom cocktails, while taking advantage of food offerings. If they want to settle in for a meal, they climb the stairs to a second-story dining space with plenty of room between tables.

Chef Andrew Berger, Iron Tail Tavern.

Berger, a North Tonawanda High School grad who lettered in track, got into the restaurant business through the dishpit. He worked his way up to sous chef at Western Door at Seneca Niagara Casino. Later he would back up Mike Andrzejewski at SeaBar, and serve stints at Misuta Chow’s.