Review: At Fortuna's, finding a Little Italy yet persists in Niagara Falls

Housemade gnocchi, ravioli, plates of peppers, defiantly different veal parmigiana give third-generation restaurant real character

Fortuna’s housemade gnocchi, rose sauce, meatball

These days, when a longstanding restaurant goes dark, reading the communal elegy on social media tends to get my dander up. 

Amid the bouquets of heartfelt remembrances lurk thorns. I loved that place, some commenters will say, adding that they haven’t visited in years.

So this critic’s mission includes per…