Here's why you should put Puerto Rico on your life map
Massive forts, the Pork Highway, rainforest parrots, and all the breathtaking nature you can handle
At the San Juan airport for the plane back to Buffalo, I saw a sign with Puerto Rico’s nickname: Island of Enchantment,
“You’re goddamn right,” I said, out loud, surprising even myself.
For a decade I enjoyed the work of Puerto Rican cooks without understanding the inspirations for their cuisine. One trip, and I’ve become a staunch advocate for putting the Caribbean island of 3.2 million American citizens on your itinerary.
Here’s a fact to get you started: round-trip tickets from Buffalo to Puerto Rico start at $160.
Tropical breezes and cobblestone streets, sure, but also massive imagination-stirring forts twice as old as the United States, and fresh snapper ceviche by the refreshing cup.
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Dayglo green parrots screeching and bioluminescent plankton glowing blue-green as your ship’s hull squeezes by on a dark harbor cruise can add breathtaking shades to your view of the world.
My partner Jen Regan, who organized our trip, wrote up some of her suggestions for the Puerto Rico curious.
Learn some Spanish, even Duolingo. Most people speak English, but it's nice to have a few words like “muchas gracias” and “dos cervezas, per favor.” A smile goes a long way.
Rent a car. Your driver’s license is in effect, but you need to have your insurance information. Best to rent at the airport, from a traditional company. We rented from a cheaper off-site dealer, then hidden additional fees made the final cost far more than advertised. (Specifically, avoid Ace Compact Car.) We found no “pay at the pump” gas stations. You have to go in and pay.
Driving is easy and familiar. Same side of road, same rules of the road. Parking in Old Town San Juan is limited. But there are large lots centrally located at $30-ish per day.
Old San Juan is beautiful, vibrant and surrounded by history, but it can be loud at night. Pack a white noise machine if you’re a light sleeper. Be prepared for loud bars and party atmosphere in much of the district.
If you visit the historic forts, Castillos de San Felipe and Cristobal, paying one entry fee gets you admission to both.
We opted to drive across the island, about four hours north to south, to La Parguera to see the bioluminescent bay. We took a big group boat, opting not to kayak as those are reported to be crowded. We had a blast.
On the way to La Parguera, we stopped on the Lechon Highway for a truly memorable meal and music. Everyone was there with big family parties, definitely a Sunday afternoon tradition.
Here’s a tipsheet to kickstart your own journey to refreshment.
San Juan
402 Avenue Muñoz Rivera, San Juan, Puertó Rico, 787-721-4269
Old-school hamburger joint with 60 years of service turns out burgers that look more like a baseball than a hockey puck. They’re all served medium-well, no picking your temperature. After a roquefort burger ($6), I heartily endorse El Hamburguer’s flaming broiler approach.
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