Coming to food writing from investigative reporting has given me a rather stricter vocabulary than many authors in the gastronomic space. I apply the same sourcing rules as ever.
If I never tried a dish in its birthplace, I’ll tell you a cook’s version is delicious, satisfying, a fantastic value. What I won’t do is vouch for its authenticity, say “This is the real deal.”
So when eating chilaquiles rojo in Taqueria los Mayas, Cheektowaga, this critic could never describe the dish as authentic. The real deal.
Delicioso? Si. Auténtico? No se.
After writing about Mexican cuisine professionally for 15 years, a week in México City, Puebla, and Oaxaca first has given me the chance to drop a kiloton of critical angst.
Here’s some highlights. Prices are in Mexican pesos, so divide by 20 to get a rough dollar value.
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