Review: At The Dove, where old-fashioned Italian family dining never went out of style

23 years of first-rate service and well-seasoned abbondanza-style dinners make Orchard Park destination unique

Veal parmesan at The Dove

We walked into the restaurant two minutes early, and were greeted and seated by time the reservation countdown clock struck zero.

As we started digesting the menu, a young man in a tie came by to say hello, fill our waters, and light the candle. Not a tealight. An 10-inch candle in a glass candlestick. He let us know our server would be along in a few minutes. 

Standard welcome, The Dove

Five minutes after our reservation time, our server arrived, with her hands full. A breadbasket with warm housemade rolls and garlic sticks, a ramekin of whipped butter-plus-deliciousness, and one spicy meatball in tomato sauce per diner. On the house.

We ordered escargot, ricotta-filled eggplant rolls, veal parmesan, and fettuccine alfredo. 

Then pasta fagioli arrived, chockablock with little shell pasta, beans, and broth, with two more bowls: finely chopped fresh onion, and freshly grated romano cheese, to apply as desired.

House salad, The Dove

House salads arrived, pristine leaves of lettuce and other greenery glossed with housemade creamy parmesan dressing, with a nutty crunch counterpunch from freshly toasted breadcrumbs.

Between courses, another lagniappe: a shotglass of iced limoncello.